Restless Peregrine

per·e·grine (pr-grn, -grn) adj. Foreign; alien. Roving or wandering; migratory; tending to travel and change settlements frequently.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Yummy, yummy, yummy, I've got snails in my tummy!


Step 1 for enjoying an ultra-fresh
seasfood feast: visit the local fish
market.


Step 2: take your purchases to someone who
has a clue how to prepare it. Preferably someone
with a very sharp knife.

Step 3: sit next to someone who likes the things
that you don't, so everything will get eaten. For
example, I'll eat the sliced penis fish (in Korean,
either 'Dog's balls fish' or 'Dog's worm fish',
bottom center) if YOU eat the slimy spiny sea
cucumber (bottom left).
Geoje City, South Korea, March 19, 2011.

Falling!


The mascot of the Korean national park service
is a pair of accident-prone Moon Bears (so-called
because of the white crest on its chest...also
known as Asiatic Black Bears). These two
delightful creatures can be seen variously being
struck by lightening, drowning, drawing on national
monuments... you name it, they've done it! But
what is it that they shouldn't be doing on this
particular sign, you ask?

In Korean, the sign is more specific...it says
'Falling danger'. I guess whoever translated it
wanted to keep it more to the point. You can
see this same tendency to abbreviate in earlier
postings...my favourite being 'Watch Crash!'

To be fair though, it IS a long way down.
Geoje Dongbaek Island, South Korea, March 19, 2011.

Panda Food




















Okay, so there are no pandas in Korea.
But with as much bamboo around as
there is, perhaps there ought to be?
Geoje Dongbaek Island, South Korea,
March 19, 2011.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Happy Nowruz!

Yesterday was Persian New Year - Happy Nowruz! I hope that the year 1390 is good to us all!

Among other places, Persian New Year is celebrated in Iran. How embarassing is it that a few months ago, I, who am an International Relations professor and not generally a completely dumb person, didn't know that most Iranians are Persian. Or that the main language of Iran is Persian. Or that Persian and Farsi are the same thing. I'm not sure I'd actually considered WHAT the people of Iran might be called (other than Iranian), because truth be told, I'd never thought much about Iran at all. I was quite content for my knowledge of that part of the world to be limited to what I 'learned' from the 1991 movie 'Not Without My Daughter' (whose uncritical reception into my brain I am blaming on my youth when I watched it), and what the ongoing procession of news stories about Iran say in the media I most commonly watch (the NY times, CBC, BBC, NZHerald).

I guess a person can't be interested in EVERYwhere ALL the time. It's reasonable to think that each of us has a sort of awareness radius that is tuned to certain places and certain people at certain times, depending on our experience. So it's not my general lack of knowledge of things Persian that troubles me. It's how easily I allowed what knowledge I had to be bounded by those extremely limited sources listed above. How I never, not for even one story that I read about crazy Iran and its crazy leader, stopped to ask the question 'What's so crazy about them?' or to look a little deeper than the paper in my hands.

And I should know better than to generalize people that way. When I first came to Korea, my best friend was (is) a man who had lived and travelled throughout Asia for several years. I would go visit him, thumb through his masses of photos, and he would ask me where I thought a particular picture was taken. I learned pretty quickly to always answer China. Even though I had never imagined that one country could contain even a fraction of the magnificence and diversity that I saw in the various prints. How had I never known this before, I wondered, that China is such an incredible country? How had I never ached to go there and discover it for myself? The first vacation I got I took a boat to China, and have been fully enamored ever since.

The news I read about China is pretty much never right. MY China, and the China in newspapers, don't have a whole lot in common. This is something I've come to expect, and to make adjustments for when adding to the big China file in my brain. Which is not to say that China doesn't have any problems - of course it does! Just that it pays to try to keep the big picture in mind when considering what I read.

And don't even get me started on Korea! I live in a very modern and cozy two-bedroom apartment on a quiet residential street in a city whose standard of living is easily the highest of any I have ever lived in. I went to the doctor this afternoon, a doctor who completed his residency at Harvard, in a state-of-the-art private hospital that would turn any of the Canadian or American or Kiwi doctors I know green with envy. And it cost me $5 for the medicine I was prescribed. Afterwards I got a tall Chai from an upscale coffee chain to soothe my throat and browsed a selection of multi-lingual books that I might have wanted to read in bed later, before taking a luxury taxi home (for $3.50). There is nowhere in town I wouldn't walk in, alone, at any time of the day or night. And my grad school colleagues back in Canada (IR majors all) once had an earnest discussion about whether I was living in a more dangerous country or whether that 'honour' fell to our classmate busy starting an NGO for refugee children in a camp in Palestine that was mortared at least once a day. This is what happens when you take the news too seriously. You forget that places are real, and that people everywhere are just people, like you. Both more and less than any 60 second news story you could ever read about them.

Somehow, however, these revelations about one part of the world never managed to penetrate that part of my brain responsible for thinking about other parts of the world. And this is a problem because I teach about the world for a living.

One of my flatmates in New Zealand, where I study when I'm not at work in Korea, is from Iran. He seemed nice enough right from the beginning, but my first inkling that things were probably not as I had imagined them in his home country came the morning he was telling me about this Canadian TV show that ALL his friends used to watch back home. This REALLY popular show in Iran, called 'Due South'. You could have knocked me over with a feather that entire day...of all the shows he might have mentioned, the cheesy mid-90s comedy/drama about a ridiculously polite mountie in Chicago was definitely not the one I was expecting. We had fun trying to remember all the characters names together (though really, who cares to name anyone except that beautiful dog Diefenbaker?), and laughing at the absurdity of that shared connection. It turned out to be the first of many connections.

Aside from TV shows, our family lives also have much in common. And our childhoods. The paths of our educations. Even our cats look alike. His family is Muslim, mine is Christian, and I had no idea whatseoever that that would make as little difference as it does to what we think, and dream and do. He shows me pictures of Iran with the same enthusiasm that my friend in Korea used to show me pictures of China, before I'd become as enthralled with it as he is. And I feel that same sense of absolute wonder imagining all the possibilities there. Iran is a place that's going to be as important to me in its own way as China already is, and probably for the same reason - because it has opened my mind and made my world infinitely bigger.

Now that I'm paying attention, I hear a lot of different people make a lot of different comments about Iran on a pretty regular basis. People who, like me, should know better. That China is the great economic and imperial worry of North America and Iran the religious is pretty accepted rhetoric. Which makes it pretty okay in a lot of different circumstances to make disparaging comments about, based on very little actual knowledge. Now that the face of Iran has shrunk for me, from a featureless mass (that I wasn't afraid of, exactly, but certainly wasn't rushing out to get to know better) to a single real individual, I find these comments hurtful. And want to do what I can to help other people think beyond them as well.

I gave a presentation about Iran in my classes the other day, as an example for my students about looking beyond the news when talking about places. I started with a slide show of pictures from various places in Iran, and asked everyone what country they thought I would be talking about. Knowing my history, the first guesses were predictably Canada and New Zealand. When they saw a photo of the capital in winter, the majority decided that it was in fact Bern, Switzerland. The sense of wonder on their faces when they discovered that the snowy city was Tehran and that it is smack in the middle of the imagined desert of the middle east gave me a glimpse of the wonder I feel every time I learn something new about Iran. 4 distinct seasons were the beginning for me too. Followed by fields of fragrant roses. Pistachio farms. The birthplace of Shiraz and polo. Some of the world's best caviar. A consolidated history going back almost 5000 years! Comparing some of that history of Iran with some of the history of Korea made it very easy for my students to contextualize what I was saying, and, they told me, made the place seem real to them for the first time. And who knows how many more worlds will open up from there?

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Snow Day


I have recently returned to wintery Korea
from a couple of months in southern hemisphere
summer. To celebrate my return to the cold,
here are a few snow shots to get me inspired
to enjoy the season. First, snowshoeing in
Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada, December 2010.


Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada, December 2010.


Leandra and Meko, enjoying a ride. Grande Prairie, AB,
Canada, December 24, 2010.
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Tuesday, March 08, 2011

Bugged


Cicada's in New Zealand are so adorably small! Definitely
not worth the trouble to barbecue, as when I was in
Zoucheng in 2009! Dunedin, New Zealand, February, 2011.
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Thursday, March 03, 2011

Snares Island Penguins


These are the two Snares Island Penguins currently in the
penguin hospital on the peninsula. The one on the rock is
a healthy male brought in during his seasonal moult by an
over-zealous tourist. Peeking out from behind him is the
little female we rescued from the beach on Saturday night.
From this angle you can see how the bones on her chest
still stick out, though her shiny new feathers are doing a lot
to mask how underwight she was.

This is the female taking a walk. When we picked her up
this whole side of her body had almost no feathers.

Here she is smiling for the camera (I like to imagine). She
still has some fattening up to do, as well as a bit more
moulting, before she'll be ready to head back to Snares Islands,
but on the whole is one very lucky little bird!
Penguin Place, Otago Peninsula, Dunedin, New Zealand,
March 3, 2011.
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Where's Snares?

The Snares Islands are a tiny group of subantarctic islands off the south coast of the south island of New Zealand, famous for absolutely nothing. I had never heard of them before this week. But they are home to a subspecies of penguin - the Snares Island Crested - which, as it turns out, is what we rescued at Sandfly Bay on Saturday night.

After being picked up by the Deptartment of Conservation (DOC), our little bird was taken to a penguin rehabilitation hospital further up the peninsula. Penguin Place has a large breeding colony of Yellow-Eyed penguins (the same kind we normally have at Sandfly), and has built a series of camouflaged underground bunkers from which to view them up close. For $45, you get a 90 minute tour of the colony, which we often send people to from Sandfly if they haven't managed to get a good look at any penguins on our beach. They also run a hospital with a full time vet, which is good news for any distressed birds in this area (including ours).

It was really nice of the staff at Penguin Place to let us in to see the hospital even though we didn't pay for the tour. They certainly didn't have to. It's a medium-sized enclosure outside, with a nice deep pool for swimming, plants to hide under, and (today) lots of sun to bask in. And it was FULL of birds, mostly Yellow-Eyeds, but also a pair of Snares Islands (ours and one someone else recently brought in), and a very beat-up looking Fiordland that looked as if it had tangled with a fishing line and lost. They said most of these birds were just having a bad moult - not enough squid around to fatten them up before their feathers started coming out. But they do also get birds with bites (shark, sea lion...), or who've been caught in nets. And they fund it all from the proceeds of their colony tours, which makes me feel a lot better about sending people out there for them.

Our penguin turns out to be a little female, badly underweight but otherwise in good condition. She is already hardly recognizeable from the pathetic creature we pulled off the beach 6 nights ago, the one with so many missing feathers and no spark at all. Now most of her new feathers are in and she's sleek and black and shiny. And though the bones in her chest are still visible, she is bright and alert and wanders around the enclosure. The keeper said that she shouldn't have any trouble on release, after a few more weeks of fattening up at the hospital. Yay! So great to see her doing so well.